Sunday, April 13, 2008

Restaurant Review: Momofuku Noodle Bar

My brother and his girlfriend came into town this weekend and we needed a cheap place to grab dinner before a lacrosse game at the Garden. With all the buzz around Ko, I thought one of the Momofuku's would be a good choice, and Noodle Bar's hours were perfect for an early dinner before the game. Even more importantly, I couldn't go on living any longer having not tasted David Chang's pork buns. It's true, I had never tried them. An awful disgrace!

We started with two orders of pork buns, which were a unanimous hit. My brother described them as "little pockets of heaven," and this is perhaps the most appropriate description. The mini sandwiches, nearly as visually appealing as they were tasty, reminded us of Asian arepas as soon as they arrived to the table. The textures of the tender pork belly, crunchy pickles and soft, doughy bun worked perfectly together, complemented by the flavor of the hoisin sauce. We also tried the fried veal sweetbreads, nicely crisp and served with pickles and a sweet chili sauce, and the chicken wings, which were coated with a spicy, garlicky, pickled chili sauce, but could have been a bit more meaty.

For our main courses, both Andrew and I and my brother and Alissa opted to share the Momofuku ramen, a steaming, flavorful broth loaded with a hearty serving of thick, al dente noodles, pork shoulder and pork belly, a poached egg and scallions. We finished off our meal with a sugar cone of soft-serve ice cream: a twist of cannoli cream and pistachio, creamy and topped with chocolate chips. But the ultimate sweet treat arrived after the dessert: a bill of just $84 for the four of us.

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